S.S. Panel Repair
How to fix and replace. November 2006
|Remove The Damaged Panel
The panel is attached by 6 rivets (two of which were under the rub rail). You can remove either by drilling them out thru the top (use a 3/16" drill), or use a cold chisel and just lob the tops off. Since this panel is going in the trash you don't have to be too careful.
The bottom lip of this panel wraps around the bottom of the superstructure. I just used a cold chisel to break the seal.
No Photo, but the panel has an adhesive attaching it to the superstructure to you'll need something to get under the stainless to break this seal.
|Small Rivet Removal
There are some small 1/8"rivets in the panel right about the panel you're getting ready to remove. It will help the installation if you remove these four. Use a 1/8" drill bit.
We're about ready to install the new panel. Take a razor scraper and get rid of the old adhesive on the superstructure.
I had some damage to the superstructure (I wish I knew the correct name for this door panel). I used a vice to straighten this section, along with a small sledge.
|Jon W. from POG had a great idea on how to straighten this panel.
Mike: I saw where you suggested you have to beat the bay door structure back to shape. It may cost a few lewbucks, but if you have a metal working shop nearby (such as a company that does AC ductwork or a custom metal fab shop) they will have a press brake or regular press.
With a few blocks to support the ends or a flat forming block they can exert the tonnage you need to straighten out the Buffet bent panel. What may take you a lot of time to do will take only minutes.
But I tend to avoid relying on others, it is probable you already have the tools. If you can rest the panel on blocks and sit a jack on the panel directly under a bus support point you have several tons of power at your disposal. The key to repairing it is where is it bent, and can you put the straightening force in the right place?
Comments from others at POG.
Mango: I'm not aware of what Jon is refering to, but what he is saying makes sense if indeed you have a bent door panel. You always have to get the base structure back in place before adding the outer trim panel. Dale is correct on the silicone, but a very thin coat, so it won't bulge the panel out. clamp it tight before riveting if you can.
Mike, Black silicone will work, it seals out the dust and moisture, your doing great.
Add a thin strip of black silicone or Sikaflex 255FC (thanks Kevin E.) to the outer perimeter before attaching panel.
Rivet holes on this panel come predrilled from IBP, which is a mixed blessing. You have to make sure they line up with existing holes in the superstructure. I finally had to use pipe clamp to make it happen. If your supperstructure is undamaged from your Buffet concert you're probably ok without the clamp.
This is a great tool with plenty of power from McMaster.com part # 90239A51. Harry suggested ordering a 2 1/2" nose piece for it, but I didn'f find it necessary as it worked great as is. It comes with 3 tips, make sure you use the 3/16".
Rivets are available from Prevost parts. Prevost Parts 800 621-5519 • 3/16 stainless steel • part # 504272 • $1.59 each.
I didn't think they needed any polishing.
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